For all the colours and forms, and the brilliant millions of petals and leaves in their kaleidoscopic arrangements at Keukenhof, what really knocks me out is the perfume. I am not so much tiptoeing through the tulips as tottering, in a daze of pleasure, along these gardens’ 10 miles of pathways.
Here are multitudes of daffodils, carpets of crocuses, seas of narcissi, alliums and anemones, and those tulips – cream mixed with pink and orange and interspersed with purple, variegated, fringed, dwarf, star-shaped, goblet-shaped. But every once in a while I am overwhelmed by an invisible blanket of perfume – the intoxicating bouquet produced by thousands and thousands of hyacinths. Wau! As the Dutch say.
For over six decades, the dedicated gardeners at Keukenhof have carefully planted an astounding seven million bulbs across its vast 79-acre expanse. Every spring, this breathtaking display of nature's beauty entices hundreds of thousands of visitors. The air is filled with a festive ambiance, reminiscent of a bygone era, as the melodic tunes from a magnificent "street-organ" with 406 pipes greet guests at the entrance.
The allure of Keukenhof is truly universal, attracting people from diverse cultures and nations who gather here to rejoice in the splendor of flowers that the world has to offer. It is an extraordinary marvel that so many individuals have embarked on journeys from around the globe to partake in this celebration.
As you explore this enchanting haven, prepare to be captivated by an array of dazzling spectacles. Picture a meandering blue river of latifolium gracefully snaking through a verdant stand of trees. Meander along charming avenues adorned with delicate cherry blossoms, casting a spell of serenity. Discover woodland areas adorned with vibrant fritillaries, each bloom resembling a work of art. And lose yourself in a tranquil Japanese garden, teeming with graceful acers that transport you to a different world.
After exploring the bustling streets of Amsterdam, the serene charm of the Dutch countryside beckons. Joining a group of fellow travelers, I embark on a captivating four-day flower-themed bike and barge tour through Holland. Our knowledgeable guide, Luek, a retired schoolteacher with a wealth of experience, gathers us together to unveil the wonders of Bloembollenstreek, the bulb-growing region that spans 20 miles from Haarlem to Leiden.
As we set off on our bikes, Luek shares intriguing facts about the region: "For over four centuries, this area has been nurturing bulbs, making Holland the leading global producer of commercially grown flowers. The vibrant blooms that grace markets worldwide spring from these fertile lands."
The Netherlands is renowned for its vibrant fields of flowers, where billions of bulbs are meticulously cultivated. These blossoms are carefully nurtured until they reach their full potential, creating a breathtaking tapestry of colors including white, mauve, gold, cerise, and crimson. As we embark on serene bike rides, we are treated to the magnificent sight of hyacinths, tulips, daffodils, irises, and peonies effortlessly thriving beneath the Dutch skies during their fleeting spring.
Our daily cycling adventures reveal fascinating landscapes, showcasing the unique geography of the region. At certain points, we find ourselves pedaling on land that is an astonishing 23ft below sea level, creating an intriguing visual spectacle. As we explore further, we are captivated by the sight of sails seemingly crossing the land. Moments later, the mystery is unraveled as a hidden stretch of water reveals itself, with yachts gracefully gliding across it. It is particularly fascinating to realize that we are actually below the waterway, separated by a high bank.
The Netherlands offers a picturesque landscape teeming with vibrant waterways and an array of wildlife including ducks, geese, herons, hawks, storks, and nesting coots. Exploring this captivating country by bike and barge provides an opportunity to witness the beauty of nature up close.
Despite the built-up landscape and proximity to buildings and major roads, it is awe-inspiring to acknowledge the ingenious and extraordinary nature of Holland. This country serves as an incredible example of what can be achieved through innovative engineering, harmonious coexistence with nature, and unwavering determination.
Embarking on a biking adventure in the Netherlands exposes travelers to an unparalleled blend of fascinating urban surroundings and serene natural beauty. It is truly a remarkable experience that showcases the rich biodiversity and harmonious integration of human progress and natural wonders.
The same can be said of the windmill, one of around 1,100 still working in Holland, that we get close to on day three – a construction which is wholly familiar in my imagination, and yet, looming before me, is completely alien. The handsome miller, Andrijs – blue-eyed, straw-haired and square-jawed – is wearing clogs, and not just for our benefit. “They’re easy to slip on and off, so you don’t get mud in your home,” he points out. How much do they cost? “About €22 [£19].” I could use a pair.
Imagine a ship that is firmly anchored to the land, yet harnesses the power of the wind to perform an ingenious task - drawing water from the peatland below. This is the essence of a windmill in the Netherlands, where energy is derived from the sails that sweep within inches of the ground. Constantly observing the weather, the mill's operator, Andrijs, skillfully adjusts the sails to optimize their performance and preserve the structure's integrity.
Within the mill, lies an impressive engine constructed entirely of robust oak, its gears whirring softly like the intricate workings of a clock. This timeless mechanism endures, silently fulfilling its duty as water is lifted from the reclaimed polder, enabling the surrounding land to flourish and thrive.
If you find yourself in the Netherlands, it is imperative to witness these majestic windmills in action. Observe their grace and power as they coexist harmoniously with the natural elements, providing a glimpse into the rich history and innovative engineering of this enchanting country.
Fun Fact: Did you know that the word 'tulip' has its origins in the Turkish word 'tulbent', meaning turban? The term then evolved to 'tulipa' in Latin.
During our bike and barge journey through the Netherlands, we have the pleasure of experiencing guided tours of two enchanting cities - Haarlem and Leiden - where our comfortable barge, the Jelmar, is moored in the evenings. These cities, with their picturesque canals, charming bridges, and unique architecture featuring wonky buildings, large windows, and stepped gables, offer a quaint atmosphere reminiscent of a smaller Amsterdam, minus the dubious reputation. Leiden, in particular, exudes a touch of glamour, showcasing ancient ships moored along its canals, exquisite warehouses constructed with small bricks, and a rich historical connection to renowned figures like Rembrandt and the Pilgrim Fathers. Prepare to be captivated by their sheer beauty.
As the sun rises on our final day, a procession of seasoned cyclists ventures towards a colossal complex that could easily be mistaken for a bustling international airport. Welcome to Aalsmeer, the unrivaled epicenter of the world's flower market. The sight that unfolds within is akin to a scene straight out of a James Bond movie, with a network of elevated walkways offering a vantage point to observe an army of workers meticulously orchestrating the launch of millions of blossoms into the global market. Darting with astonishing agility on unassuming electric tractors, these industrious individuals navigate through the trading floor, trailing behind them train-like lines of up to 15 carriages brimming with vibrant blooms. The pathway that stretches out before us appears endless, leading us eventually to an auction room where banks of professionals eagerly await the arrival of meticulously arranged plants, ready to be showcased and sold.
Experience the exhilaration of witnessing this mesmerizing spectacle, an absolute must for any flower enthusiast. Immerse yourself in the world of flora as you explore the wonders of Aalsmeer, delving into its rich history and admiring the remarkable processes that occur within this thriving hub. Traverse the elevated walkways, gaze upon the sea of color, and channel your inner detective as you observe the auction unfold before your eyes.
I quickly acclimate to the bustling atmosphere of the flower market. A striking sight greets me - two immense clocks with information about the number of stems per container and the minimum quantity to be purchased. The rapid pace at which transactions occur amazes me - sometimes taking just a matter of seconds. It's no wonder, considering the staggering volume of around 10,000 purchases being made each day. As I scan the crowd of approximately 500 buyers, I notice only a handful of women. Apparently, the world of flowers is predominantly dominated by men.
As the Jelmar glides gracefully along the outskirts of Amsterdam, passing elegant mansions, I revel in the picturesque surroundings. Alongside us, rowers and cyclists accompany our journey. John, a former economist hailing from St Louis, leans towards me and imparts a fascinating nugget of information: "You may find it intriguing to know that, within economic circles, Aalsmeer epitomizes business excellence. This is attributed to its impressive scale, remarkable efficiency, robust regulation, and compelling incentives."
"Truly? That's quite captivating," I respond, though, at this point, I must confess that my enthusiasm for flowers is waning.
Reaching your Destination
To begin your Dutch adventure, Easyjet offers daily flights from Gatwick, Luton, and Southend airports to Schiphol, with one-way fares starting from £23.
From Schiphol airport, you can easily reach the heart of Amsterdam by hopping on a train departing every 10-15 minutes. The quick 20-minute journey costs about €4.30/£3.75. Alternatively, if you prefer a more direct route, taking a taxi will get you to your destination in about the same time, but expect to pay €35-40/£30- 34.50 for the convenience.
Once you've settled in, embark on boat tours that depart from the Scheepvaartkwartier, just a short 10-minute walk from Amsterdam Centraal Station.
For a touch of beauty and color, Keukenhof, known as the Garden of Europe, welcomes visitors daily until May 20th. Immerse yourself in the stunning flower displays from 8am until 7.30pm. Grab your ticket for €15/£13 and enjoy the floral splendor.
Tour Packages
Experience the breathtaking Dutch landscapes with Freedom Treks (freedomtreks.co.uk; 01273 224066). Their four-day/three-night Tulip Tour by barge and bicycle begins at just £349 per person. This package includes full board basis for two individuals, tour guide services, bicycle hire, entrance to the stunning Keukenhof gardens and unique visitations to windmill and cheese farm. This exclusive price, however, excludes airfare and transfer costs.
If you're not a fan of cycling but would still love to explore Holland, Bakers Dolphin offers the perfect solution (bakersdolphin.co.uk; 01934 415000). Enjoy a comfortably-paced five-day coach tour based in the historical city of Breda. Starting from Dover, you'll tour not only Keukenhof but the energetic cities of Amsterdam and Antwerp as well. Prices start at £389 per person for dual occupancy.
Discover the Local Gems
If you're in Haarlem and craving a delicious beer, make your way to In Den Uiver located at Riviervischmarkt 13. This charming pub, which originally operated as a fish shop, has been serving up excellent beers on tap for the past 30 years, creating a cozy atmosphere you won't want to miss.
If you're a flower enthusiast visiting Keukenhof, seize the opportunity to explore their vast collection of new and unique bulb varieties. One fascinating aspect of Keukenhof is that there are no restrictions on taking these bulbs back to the UK, allowing you to bring a piece of the gardens' beauty home with you. This year, the gardens have embraced a UK-themed display, featuring a remarkable flower mosaic showcasing icons like Big Ben and Tower Bridge.
A short trip from Amsterdam, Aalsmeer is easily accessible by bus 172 from Centraal Station. The journey takes approximately half an hour and spans a distance of 10 miles. To make the most of your visit, plan to arrive early, as visitors are welcome from 7.30am on weekdays, and the market activities wind down by 11am.
As you prepare to depart Aalsmeer, take a moment to explore the small photographic display located near the market's exit, offering a fascinating glimpse into bygone eras. This captivating exhibit juxtaposes the incredible technology in use today with its historical context, providing a unique perspective on the market's evolution over time.
What to avoid
Don’t be late for breakfast on the boat – its small crew operates to a very strict timetable, with little tolerance for stragglers.
April and May are the driest months in Holland, but don’t forget to bring waterproofs and warm clothes for bike rides.
Holland’s canal banks are popular with dogs and their owners, so be careful not to put your feet somewhere that’s going to upset the ship’s captain.
The Okura Hotel, Amsterdam
Located in Amsterdam, Netherlands, this gem is among the top hotels in Amsterdam.
This enormous hotel boasts a discreet luxury and is housed in a 23-storey building overlooking the traditionally low-rise city of Amsterdam. The nightly rate starts from £ 222. Verify Availability. Prices are sourced from Booking.com.
The Breitner House
ACCOMMODATION in Amsterdam, Netherlands
This property was once the residence of a renowned Dutch artist from the 19th-century, and currently boasts lavish decorations epitomizing his era... If you're interested in other premier accommodations in the Netherlands, you might want to check tophotels.com.
At Breitner House, our starting price is at £ 535 per night Verify availability. Fees obtained from Booking.com.
Room 01
Their location? The vibrant city of Amsterdam, Netherlands.
Originally a canal house from the 16th century, it has been modernized while retaining historic charm.... Pricing starts from £ 355 per night. Cross-check availability. Prices quoted are provided by Booking.com.