“Nature is built on a stupendous plan in that region,” Mark Twain once wrote of the valley leading into Zermatt. “There is nothing tame, or cheap, or trivial — it is all magnificent.”
Much of today’s Zermatt would still be familiar to Twain. The high, stony pyramid of the Matterhorn — “lonely, conspicuous, and superb,” as he described it — still dominates the local skyline. The area’s dozens of jagged peaks continue to lure legions of summit-hungry mountaineers, much as they did when Twain visited in 1878, and the old village center remains car free.
These days, of course, you can add a few more attractions to the list: world-class skiing, luxury shopping, buzzing dining and après-ski scenes, and formidable feats of engineering that allow even the uninitiated to ascend into the frozen Alpine wilderness. Ski lovers will be happy to know that you can hit the slopes year-round in Zermatt. While the main ski area closes this year on April 19, up to 13 miles of pistes high on the Theodul Glacier remain open even in summer.
Nothing comes cheap here, of course; even by Swiss standards, Zermatt is expensive. But if you’re looking to splurge on a European ski weekend, it’s hard to think of a more glorious place.
At Elsie's Wine and Champagne Bar, you can sip Irish coffee, a steaming mug of glühwein (mulled wine), or a hot chocolate spiked with kirsch, the locally beloved cherry liqueur.Credit...Andrea Wyner for The New York Times
Friday
36 Hours in Zermatt, Switzerland
3) 7 p.m. Experiencing Italian Flavours
Here's to our southern neighbours! Visit Le Chalet da Giuseppe for an authentic Italian treat. Embrace the warm hospitality as Giuseppe Battagliese could personally greet you with his signature hearty Italian welcome. Delight in the exquisitely prepared Italian fare such as Parma ham paired with buffalo mozzarella, homemade ravioli stuffed with spinach and rich ricotta, or a hearty lamb osso buco served alongside a creamy four-cheese risotto. As you enjoy your meal, Giuseppe might just drop by, adding to the wonderfully warm dining experience. Expect to spend roughly 120 Swiss francs for a two-course dinner for two, inclusive of wine. Remember, booking in advance is a must.
4) 9 p.m. Evenide Delight
Experience the charm of yesteryears amidst the ornate woodwork, sumptuous cushions, and vintage prints embellishing the walls of Elsie’s Wine and Champagne Bar. This bar serves up an ambiance ideal for a concluding beverage of the evening. Indulge in a traditional Irish coffee, savor a piping mug of glühwein, a holiday favorite, or a kirsch-infused hot chocolate, a regional favorite cherry-based drink. The menu holds a variety of local wines that are available by the glass, with prices initiating around 6 Swiss francs.
5) 8 a.m. Swiss breakfast
Start the morning with a filling breakfast at Fuchs, a family-owned bakery and cafe with three locations in town. At the central spot on Bahnhofstrasse, head upstairs and find a table in the snug seating area overlooking the street below. Tuck into an assortment of pastries and rolls served with butter and jam, or order a bowl of muesli topped with whipped cream (breakfast for two, about 30 Swiss francs). If you’re eager to hit the slopes — several of the lifts open before 9 a.m. — grab a coffee and pastry to go from the counter downstairs. For 2.60 Swiss francs, you can get either a classic Berliner jam doughnut or a decadent, raisin-studded Schnecke, a spiral pastry that will keep you going until lunch.
7) 1 p.m. Midday Repast in the Alps
Prepare yourself for a ski-bound journey to Chez Vrony, a destination restaurant rooted in Findeln that captures the essence of rustic elegance. Experience the quintessence of Swiss Alpine cuisine here – indulge in delicious fondue, savor mouth-watering raclette, relish crispy rösti, and treat yourself to air-cured beef produced from cattle that spend their summers grazing in Findeln's lush pastures. When the weather is fair and the sun warmly shines, seek a seat on the expansive deck. Plenty of blankets are at the ready should you desire further cozy comfort. Alternatively, snuggle indoors amongst the warm wooden accents, stone features, and chic mountain-themed adornments of this homely farmhouse. A meal for two can range between 40 and 100 Swiss francs. Securing a reservation is absolutely necessary.
9) 8 p.m. Riverside Dinner Experience
Continue your post-skiing revelry at the Snowboat – a welcoming eatery and bar designed like a yacht, nestled on the shores of the Matter Vispa River that bisects Zermatt. Boasting a vibrant club in the basement, the establishment's main level offers a dining and drinking haven where amiable staff members cater to a diverse group of locals and tourists. Savor their distinctive Walliser burger, aptly named after Zermatt's canton, garnished with bacon, caramelized onions, and melting raclette cheese. Budget approximately 100 Swiss francs for a sumptuous two-course meal with beverages for two, providing an intriguing culinary adventure amidst the enchantingly serene river sounds.
Sunday
12) 11 a.m. Paradise on ice
Close out the weekend by getting your own taste of the high mountains, no ice ax required. Just walk or take the bus to the Trockener Steg lift, where you can buy a ticket to the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise, a mountain station — complete with a restaurant and gift shop — that’s built into the summit of the Klein Matterhorn at the rather breathless altitude of more than 12,700 feet. The fun begins in the gondola, where you can enjoy evolving perspectives of the Matterhorn and, on the final stretch, a bird's-eye view of the glacier below. At the top, a short elevator ride takes you down into the glacier itself, where you can admire ice sculptures carved into the walls of a man-made frozen tunnel. Another elevator whisks you up to an outdoor viewing platform — the highest in Europe — where you can take in 360 degrees of icy Alpine panorama. Round-trip tickets on the gondola cost 87 Swiss francs; add another 10 francs if you want to upgrade to the “crystal ride,” with its Swarovski crystals and transparent floor. Either way, don’t forget your hat and gloves.
Lodging
For a splurge, book a room at the Backstage Hotel, a design-lover’s dream that also hosts a small cinema and a two-Michelin-starred restaurant. Doubles on weekends late in ski season start at 469 Swiss francs, including entry to the spa.
The Hotel Matterhornblick, near the church, offers friendly service and comfortable accommodation for a more affordable 220 Swiss francs for a double, including breakfast and spa access. (During busy weeks, the price rises to 260 Swiss francs, and a minimum stay of three or four nights may be imposed.)
Through Airbnb, you can find a wide range of apartment rentals in the village center, but try to reserve early: The handful of cheaper places (some as low as 100 Swiss francs a night) are often booked well in advance.
If you're looking for a bit of excitement during your stay, consider booking a room at one of the Casino hotels in Switzerland at top-hotels-switzerland.com. You'll not only have comfortable accommodations but also the added thrill of trying your luck at the tables.